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Over Existing Lawns On Bare Soil How Much Seed How to Spread Seed Problem Areas
Over-seeding Existing Lawns: is one of the easiest ways to reduce lawn maintenance over time.Depending on the type of grass being over-seeded, it can take a season for No Mow Grass to crowd down other grasses and it does this by taking up nutrients and moisture (and space).
Follow these steps to reduce your existing lawn:
While waiting for your seed to arrive-
- Measure the area to plant and divide that by 1,000 if you have flat level ground.
- Divide your sq ft by 500 if you have sloped areas. That is the number of pounds of seed to order.
- Click Here to Order
- Remove all weeds in the manner you are comfortable with.
- Mow existing lawn very short.
- Spread the Seed Evenly (close up large holes so you have enough seed to go around the area in different directions).
- Only walk on area when the ground is dry and you need to do maintenance on the old grasses.
We have heard of good results from planting over southern grasses and most northern grasses. Over seeding southern grasses gives hardiness for hot conditions and adds green color over winter.
The amount of grass seed needed is higher since actual germination will depend on how much seed reaches the soil and can sprout. Order 25% extra when taking over another type of grass. Then mulch mow to "push" the seed down. This also helps cover it with old grass clippings and increases the germination rate.
Small areas can be hand spread using a hand-held spreader. Large areas require larger spreaders. Simply spread the seed over the area and continue maintenance as usual then gradually reduce mowing over the season to "when it looks like it needs it" or once a month. Do not mow during summer heat - but if you really get the urge to mow, then set your mower at the highest setting.
You do not need to water the sprouting grass but try to stay off newly planted lawns for the first month to 6 weeks.
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Bare Soil Planting: is the fastest way to a low maintenance lawn but requires the biggest up-front investment of time and labor. Unless you have a newly constructed lawn, then follow these steps:
KILL OFF OLD LAWN - if you prefer not to use herbicides, then try placing black plastic over the area until the grass underneath is very dead (secure it down well); torch the area (contact your local authorities before doing this); dig it up taking it down to the grass roots; spray vinegar over it (this usually needs to done more than once and the soil needs to be neutralized before planting seed).
PREPARE THE SOIL by leveling and lightly raking the top with a light layer of well rotted compost. Soil does not need to be perfect for our grasses to do well. Many are native to North America and adapt to the many soil conditions here, providing basic needs are met. For problem soils - click Problem Soils.
PLANT SEED at the recommended rate (order extra for any bare spots). Rake in the seed using a chopping up & down motion. Raking across will collect seed all in one place, (where you lifted your rake). Keep moist until grass is established and reduce watering. The first growth will go straight up, then grows side-ways. It typically only attempts to go to seed the first few years, which is the only time we recommend a mowing. Grass blades will typically grow 3" - 6" depending on location and soil conditions.
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How Much Seed? Since our seed is very fine - you get more seed per pound than most other seeds on the market. 1LB of our seed can equal 5 LBs of many other types of grass seeds.
Follow these tips for calculating your seed:
Over seeding an existing lawn- add 25% depending on how long you want before our grass crowds down your other grasses.
New lawn: Order a little extra for bare spots. (usually 1LB extra per 10LBs seed).
Store unused seed in a cool dry dark place. Seed will loose some germination yearly but remains usable for up to 5 years.
1 LB Original Bent 1 LB Creeping Bent 1 LB Hot Dry Mix Covers: 500 to 1,000SqFt Covers: 500 to 1,000SqFt Covers: 400 to 750SqFt w/Annual Rye covers:
400 to 750SqFt
w/Annual Rye covers:
400 to 750SqFt
w/Annual Rye covers:
300 to 500SqFt
How to Spread Seed? - Unless you are hydro-seeding- DO NOT ATTEMPT TO SPREAD SEED ON A WINDY DAY.
You can spread seed by hand if you have a small area. Larger areas we recommend mixing the seed with sand and setting your spreader on the lowest setting to ensure good coverage. It is better to go over an area in several different directions, several times than not have enough seed to go over your area
once. This seed is fine enough to run through your spreader without effort. Tape closed holes if needed.
Start by going over the area to plant in 1 direction, then a different direction with each pass.
Make sure you can water new lawns for the first month or two. Reduce moisture over this time to encourage deep rooting. Three times day for 5 minutes is better than 1 time a day for 30 minutes.
Start by preparing the area (s) by removing weeds so they do not compete with your new grass.
Spread seed across the area after mowing at the lowest setting on your mower. Mulch mow whenever possible to encourage the seed be directed toward the ground where it will germinate.
Do not add seed starters to our seed as it encourages taller growth. (Seed starter is often a hormone.)
Try to stay off newly planted lawns until a healthy root system is established (about 4 weeks) . Only walk on the area when maintenance of the old grass is needed - preferably when the grass is dry.
Read your labels on any products you buy & use- some herbicides on the market are now "season - long" and will not let anything grow for entire season.
Grass seed will sprout any time the ground temperatures are above 60 degrees so there are many planting times to consider. Do what works best for you- When it works best for you to do it.
How to Plant Nomowgrass - the lowest maintenance grass
Call to order No-Mow Grass now.
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